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✨ LATEST ISSUE • From ULR Issue 14 – WITNESS

Visual Narrative: Witnessing a City in Colours

Prague's allure resists the quick capture of a phone. Instead, sketching becomes a way to slow time, to feel stone and scent.

3 min read

Jacques Derrida, in his 1995 work, Mal d’Archive, spoke about the feverish desire to archive, to record and to preserve. This phrase feels even more urgent now, when everyone with a smartphone has become an archivist of their own life. We photograph to remember, but our memories live in clouds. When we wish to recall a moment, we no longer reach inward but scroll outward like faithful archivists and retrieve data. Sometimes our devices ambush us with “memories” from months or years ago, and we are made to relive what we thought we had already lived enough, in fragmented, decontextualised forms.


In Prague, on a solo work trip, I realised that I did not want to take photographs at all, in spite of the visual allure that the city held for me, and the constant itch to take my phone out and snap everything that I saw, lest I forget. The churches were magnificent, the cobbled streets unfamiliar and quaint, and the Charles Bridge over the Vltava alluring. But what did I want to see? What was I truly witnessing to remember in a not-so-distant future? Could a series of photographs snapped up quickly on my Android phone ever hold the scent of Trdelník sugar, the sound of a violin under Charles Bridge, the sensation of walking without destination or obligation? Would a photograph remember the small miracle of eating alone, or the decision to skip a conference session to watch a school band in action, the sensation of walking on cobbled roads till my feet ached, perhaps the very stones Kafka once walked on?

Sketch 1 — Witnessing a City in Colours. Hand-drawn coloured pencil sketch of Prague.

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Sketch 2 — Prague streets and architecture. Hand-drawn coloured pencil sketch.

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So, I began to sketch. At first, because I had promised myself I would; later, because I needed to. I sat on sidewalks, on café steps, under awnings, trusting my eyes and my hands, and the limits of my own attention. In sketching, I was not storing data. I was staying in the moment. I was learning to remember.

Sketch 3 — Café steps and street life in Prague. Hand-drawn coloured pencil.

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Sketch 4 — Prague architecture and street scene. Hand-drawn coloured pencil.

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I spent five days in Prague, and whatever time I could spare from the conference venue, which turned out to be quite a lot, I gave to the city. I hopped on trams and tried the strange, unfamiliar names of the stations on my lips as I heard them over the PA system: Dlouhá třída, Malostranská, Stavovské divadlo, and many more. I walked across the Charles Bridge and watched people playing music, taking photographs of themselves and others, buying and selling colourful metal earrings shaped like birds and cats.

Sketch 5 — Prague tram. Hand-drawn coloured pencil sketch.

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Sketch 6 — Charles Bridge, Prague. Hand-drawn coloured pencil and ink.

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I wandered through alleys that smelled of cinnamon and pistachio and felt as though I had slipped through time when I reached the Golden Lane near Prague Castle. I stopped at house number 22, where Kafka was said to have lived, and thought about how small rooms could hold entire worlds. I read funny signs outside pubs and drifted through both the old and new parts of town with ease.

Sketch 7 — Golden Lane, Prague Castle. Hand-drawn coloured pencil sketch.

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Sketch 8 — Prague alleyways and architecture. Hand-drawn coloured pencil.

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Once, my phone died and I lost my way in an unfamiliar part of the city. I promptly sat down and sketched my heart out before walking all the way back to my hotel, getting lost a few more times before finding myself again on familiar cobbled streets.

In five days, I lived, and time slowed down for me. I was alone and Prague benefited from my undivided attention to it. Not that the city noticed me of course. But I did.

Sketch 9 — Final sketch of Prague. Hand-drawn coloured pencil, closing image.

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Vrinda Varma

Vrinda teaches for a living, is an aspiring writer and a translator by accident. In 2024, she received the PEN/Heim Translation Grant. Her idea of a perfect day is one spent reading and writing without interruptions, accompanied by a strong cup of coffee, but alas, real life often has other plans. She also runs a sporadic Substack account where she shares stories and poems. Her short fiction recently appeared in The Mean Pepper Vine.

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